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Health Center » Healthy Personal Care Products

Personal Care Ingredients

May 09, 2006 by Thomas Affatato

 

Personal Care Ingredients

Cosmetics have been used for thousands of years.  Ancient Egyptians lavished in painted faces and arms.  The love of exotic painted faces was as exciting then as it is today.  South American tribe’s people paint their bodies and tattoo themselves in honor of special occasions or to define their statues among the tribe’s people.
One very distinct difference persists from then ‘til the present.  The substances used by the Ancient Egyptians thousands of years ago and the South American tribe’s people of today are their use of natural and organic cosmetics.
The cosmetics consumed by the majority of the Western population are filled with many chemicals.  Little research has been conducted as to the adverse health effects these chemical additives have on the human body.  What we put on our body is as important as what we put into our body.
The ever-increasing rise in breast cancer should give cause for women that maybe what they’re applying to their skin might be unhealthy.
The use of under arm sprays, roll on’s, and feminine hygiene sprays could very well be carcinogenic: these are areas of the body that get no ventilation and thus the products applied get completely absorbed through the body’s pores.

Cosmetics chemists are mostly male.  Little regard is given to the safety of humans, the environment, or the animals that suffered through theses horrible tests.  Lab animals are no longer being used by many of the major cosmetic companies.  Many lab animals were tortured and killed in the decision process of what chemicals were declared safe for the human body.  The Food and Drug Administration does not regulate the cosmetic industry.  The product is considered safe if it doesn’t harm human’s short term.
No long term testing occurs or is required.  The cosmetics we use may contain formaldehyde, benzene, and other petrochemicals that will cause disease and harm the environment.  These are not products we want on our bodies.
Teenage girls as young as eleven and twelve, are using cosmetics that they purchase on the checkout line at the local market or pharmacy.  Read the ingredient label of these products. Chances are, pronouncing them is a chore.  Cosmetic companies will use any slick advertising or slogan to sell their product and make you disregard the ingredients. Thousands of cosmetics contain “sodium lauryl sulfate.”  It is often found in many cosmetic products labeled, “NATURAL.”  It is also claimed to be derived from coconut oil.  Well, it is not natural – it’s produced synthetically via the Ziegler process and is rarely ever made from coconut oil as noted in Journal of Investigative Dermatology.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, also known as SLS, is used as a detergent and emulsifier. An emulsifier allows two substances that would normally not mix together, such as oil, vinegar, and lemon juice so they stabilize with in each other.  This ingredient is used in shampoos, toothpaste, body creams, and lotions. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is an irritant in high concentration.  It degreases hair and skin and can damage hair and skin.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is often combined with triethanolamine (TEA), which is known to be contaminated with carcinogens called nitrosamines. 

Colors

Coloring in cosmetics is more about marketing than about beautifying oneself.  In 1960, the Food and Drug Administration produced a provisional list of coloring that were to be abolished.  Many of them are still in use today.  Food coloring are listing at the end of an ingredient label as FDC and DC  (Food Drug and Cosmetic), (Drug and Cosmetic).  Most FD&C colors are made from coal tar, a petrochemical.

 

Coal tar has been shown to cause cancer in animal testing.  Also, many people are allergic to coal tar.  Aniline, a coal tar derivative, is a poison.
Over the years, the FDA has removed FD&C Orange #1, Orange #2, Red #32, Red #1, Yellow #1, #2, #3 and #4. Red #2 was removed due to tumor growth in lab rats.  Red #4, once used to color candy and maraschino cherries, was banned as a carcinogenic.
Tritan colors, triphenylmethane dyes, are used to color many cosmetics.  They are made from carbon tetrachloride; benzene and aluminum chloride.  These chemicals are highly toxic and carcinogenic.  These colors are FD&C Green #1, #2, and #3 and FD&C Blue #1.
Lipsticks contain colors that are derived from tanthenes.  They are a group of bright colors and are found in FD&C Red #3, D&C Red #2 and #19, also known as Rhodamine B and D&C Orange.
Tanthenes are toxic and cause phototoxicity of the skin, which may lead to skin cancer.
Quinoline, also derived from coal tar is brightly carcinogenic and toxic.  D&C Yellow #10 and #11 and many other artificial colors are made with quinoline.  Many labels on cosmetic and food products just say artificial coloring.  Quinoline contains formaldehyde, used in preserving dead bodies and body organs.  Acetaldehyde and aniline, are poisons.
Anthraquinone is also from the family of coal tars.  Phthalic anhydride and benzene are the main contaminants, they are found in D&C  Violet #2.
I could write volumes about harmful ingredients.  My hope is the very brief outline of dangerous chemicals contained in a fifty-nine cent tube of lipstick will save many innocent people from unknown illnesses.

Ingredients

The following are comparisons for just a few body care products that will jump start our ability to read and understand personal care product labeling:

§ White Camellia & Jasmine Conditioning Shampoo (natural shampoo label)

- Ingredients: Water, Coconut Soap, Vegetable Glycerine, Wheat Protein, Aloe Vera, White Camellia Oil, Rosa Mosqueta Rose Hip Seed Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, Almond Oil, Geranium Oil, Lavender Oil, orange Blossom Oil, Jasmine, French Rose Water, Natural Vitamin E Oil. Preserved with Citrus Seed Extract and Vitamins A, C &E.

Coconut Soap: One of several ways in which this shampoo cleans your hair.  When added to wet hair, it combines with your hair’s natural oils and rinses away dirt – with extra foaming and cleansing added by the wheat protein.  Vegetable Glycerine: Natural humectant (attracts moisture to hair) that also makes product thicker.  Propylene glycol (a cheap, mineral oil-based substitute) is often used in formulas for the same purpose.  Wheat Protein: Adds “substantivity” to hair, i.e., a thicker feel. Also helps coat hair shaft to repair damaged hair.  Aloe Vera: All-around excellent hair and scalp treatment.  White Camellia Oil: Traditionally used in Oriental countries, this oil is high in EFA’s (essential fatty acids) that are moisturizing to the hair and skin.  Rosa Mosqueta: South American oil shown to have superb results with dry and damaged hair.  Macadamia Nut Oil: Very moisturizing, without being greasy.  Almond Oil: Excellent hair moisturizer.  Geranium, Lavender, Orange Blossom and Jasmine Oils: Essential oils added for their calming and fragrant properties.  Rose Water: Natural fragrance used for thousands of years as a soothing and moisturizing ingredient in hair and skin products.  It was used by the physician, Galen, in ancient Egypt. Natural Vitamin E Oil: Added for its antioxidant properties, it protects oils from rancidity and helps preserve product.  Citrus Seed Extract and Vitamins A, C, & E: A natural preservative, which protects both the oil and water phase of a product.  Citrus and grapefruit seed extracts are currently being studied as treatments for yeast infections.

§ Henna Shampoo for Blond Hair (synthetic shampoo label)

- Ingredients: Water, Henna Extract, Chamomile Extract, Sodium Olefin Sulfonate, Cocoamide, DEA, Sodium Myeth Sulfate, TEA Lauryl Sulfate, Panthenol, Wheat Germ Oil, Hexadecanol, EGMS, Amodimethicone, Lemongrass Oil, Citrus Acid, Methylparaben, Germall, Fragrance.

Water: What kind of water?  (Distilled is best.) Henna Extract: What is the strength of the extract?  Is it extracted in water or something else?  It is neutral (i.e. noncoloring) henna?  Chamomile Extract: How extracted?  What strength?  Sodium Olefin Sulfonate: Synthetic detergent.  May be irritating and drying to hair and skin.  Cocoamide DEA: Foam stabilizer and thickener. Synthetic.  DEA stands for diethanolamine, which may be contaminated with nitrosamines.  Sodium Myeth Sulfate: Synthetic detergent.  Not biodegradable.  May leave hair dry and dull.  TEA Lauryl Sulfate: Synthetic detergent, stronger than above, combined with triethanolamine to balance the acidity of the shampoo and to thicken it.  May be contaminated with nitrosamines.  May be irritable to the skin.  Drying to the hair.  Panthenol: Provitamin B5, added to make hair feel thicker.  Wheat Germ Oil: Rich in vitamin E, if protected with antioxidants, which it isn’t; added for its moisturizing properties.  Hexadecanol: Also known as cetyl alcohol.  May be neutral or synthetic.  Added for its moisturizing properties. Amodimethicone: Silicone fluid used to give a smooth feel to product.  May cause allergic reactions.  Lemongrass Oil: Herbal, probably added for fragrance.  Citrus Acid: Used as a preservative, and an acidifier.  Methylparaben: Synthetic preservative.  Incompatible with protein and anionic surfactants, including TEA lauryl sulfate.  Germall: Trade name for imidazolidinyl urea, a synthetic preservative that can release formaldehyde at over 10 degrees Celsius.  Fragrance: What is this?  May be natural or synthetic.  Consumers need to know; fragrance is the leading cause of allergic reactions.

§ Rosa Mosqueta Rose Hip Moisturizing Cream (natural moisturizer label)

- Ingredients: Fatty Acid Cream Base, Aloe Vera, Rosa Mosqueta Rose Hip Seed Oil, Horsetail, Coltsfoot, Nettle, Coneflower, St. John’s Wort, Calendula, Sweet Almond Oil, Citrus Seed Extract with Vitamins A, C & E as preservative.

Fatty Acid Cream Base: This is used as a carrying agent and an absorption agent for the herbs and essential oils in the product.  It is a natural ingredient made with coconut fatty acids.  Aloe Vera: This is the liquid “gel” from the aloe vera plant.  It is excellent for the skin as a moisturizer.  Rosa Mosqueta Hip Seed Oil: A trade name for the oil obtained from the South American rose hip, which are the red seeds from the wild rose that grows in the Andes Mountains (Rosa aff.) Rbiginosa).  The oil from these seeds is high in fatty acids and vitamin C.  It is soothing and moisturizing to the skin, and known for its ability to reduce lines on the skin and help burns.  Horsetail: This herb is excellent for the hair and skin.  It is high in silica (7%), sulfur and fatty acid esters, which are texturizers and moisturizers to skin and hair.  Coltsfoot: This herb is high in silica as well as amino acids such as cysteine, which are important to the hair and skin.  Nettle: This herb has phytosterols, which have been found to be excellent treatments for the skin and hair.  It’s said to stimulate hair growth by herbalists and is a mild skin astringent.  It’s high in protein, amino acids, and vitamins.  Coneflower: This herb is an excellent skin soother and is so mild and healing it’s been used in France as an eyewash since ancient times.  St. John’s Wort: This herbal extract is soothing to the skin.  Excellent to the skin.  Calendula: Calendula officinalis, better known as marigold, is soothing to the skin.  Sweet Almond Oil: Well known as a skin emollient.  Citrus Seed Extract with Vitamins A, C, & E: Used as a preservative.

§ Oil-Free Herbal Moisturizer (synthetic moisturizer)

- Ingredients: Infusions of Calendula, Cucumber, Echinacea, Suma, Aloe, Chamomile, Ginkgo Biloba, Rose Hips, Nettle and Geranium, Propylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate S. E., Octyl Hydroxystearate, Starch Octyl Succinate, Cetyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 40, Cyclomethicone, Hyaluronic Acid, NaPCA, Panthenol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Carbomer 940, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Imidazlidinyl Urea, Fragrance (Essence Oil).

Infusions of Calendula, Cucumber, Echinacea, Suma, Aloe, Chamomile, Ginkgo Biloba, Rose Hips, Nettle and Geranium: This sounds good but tells us little. First, what is the strength of infusion?  1%? 3%? With what kind of water?  Distilled is best because it’s purest.  Propylene Glycol: Cheap synthetic humectant made from mineral oil.  Choose vegetable glycerine instead.  Glyceryl Stearate S. E.: Pearlizing agent, emulsifier, and opacifier.  Synthetic.  May cause irritation and clogged pores.  Starch Octyl Succinate: Thickener Cetyl Alcohol: Fatty alcohol that may be natural or synthetic.  Thickener and emollient.  Polysorbate 40: Fatty acid ester used as emulsifier.  May cause dry skin.  Cyclomethicone: Added to give “smooth feel” may cause allergic reactions.  Hyaluronic Acid: Animal extract used as humectant. Panthenol or aloe vera mucopolysacchride is just as effective, without harming animals.  NaPCA: Synthetic chemical. Humectant.  Panthenol: Vitamin B5. good humectant.  Tetrasodium EDTA: Sequestering agent. May cause severe irritation.  Carbomer 940: Synthetic emulsifier that can cause irritation.  Methylparaben: Preservative.  Ineffective in products containing protein.  Propylparaben: Synthetic preservative.  See above.  Imidazlidinyl Urea: Synthetic preservative.  May release formaldehyde over temperatures of 10 degrees Celsius (50 degreed Fahrenheit) Fragrance (Essence Oil): What “essence” oil?  Fragrance frequently causes allergic reactions.


Ingredients Good, Natural Manufacturers Use:

Color:
Good, natural manufacturers add no synthetic colors to their products.  In fact, they use no colors at all.  The colors of their products are just whatever colors the ingredients impart to them.

Disinfectants:
A good natural compounder depends on the disinfecting and antifungal qualities of herbals such as camphor, eucalyptus, allspice, and menthol.  These substances not only protect the product from microbial, bacterial and fungal invasion, they do the same for your hair and skin.

Emollients:
Emollients act to lubricate and soften skin.  The most effective ones are those that are closest to your skin’s natural sebum.  Over 20 years ago, I pioneered the use of herbal oils such as evening primrose oil and Rosa Mosqueta oil, and essential fatty acids.

Emulsifiers:
Many cosmetic products are emulsions (homogenous combinations of oil and water).  Emulsions can be made and kept stable in a variety of ways.  “Shake well before using” is one way; the use of vegetable glycerine and alcohol is another one.  (Most emulsions are made by assembling the oil and water phases separately, and then, with the appropriate heating and cooling phases, combining them.)

Essential oils:
Herbal oils possess all kinds of therapeutic properties, both mentally and physically, but only when they’re used in all-natural formulas.  Some of the essential oils most commonly used are eucalyptus, camphor, menthol, camomile, balsam tolu, allspice, geranium, magnolia and Chinese herbals.

Gums:
Herbal gums like gum tragacanth and gum Arabic can be used to provide lift and body in hair gels, natural hair sprays and other hair-styling products.  They work without drying your hair or adding petrochemicals to your body or the earth.  They can also be combined with Panthenol, a hair humectant and thickener.

Humectants:
These ingredients, which attract water to skin and hold moisture in cosmetics, can also have a soothing effect on skin and hair.  Natural humectants include vegetable glycerine, Panthenol (vitamin B5) and vitamin E.

Hair Conditioners:
Many natural substances can improve the feel and manageability of damaged hair, including proteins such as lactabumin (from milk) and glycogen (from oysters), and sulphur-containing amino acids such as cysteine and methiones.  Among the herbals long known for their hair-conditioning properties are rosemary, sage, balsam, horsetail and coltsfoot.

Soaps:
Soaps are compounds that can dissolve in both oil and water.  Made from fats, either animal or vegetable, and salts (such as lye or sea salt), they’re more biodegradable.  Vegetable soaps are also milder than detergents, but they may not work well in hard water in improperly formulated.  With the use of various herbs and a skillful formula, hard water poses no problems, even for a totally natural soap.
Coconut oil soap is a milder cleanser made by naturally combining coconut oil and sea salt. It may be thickened with aloe vera. Olive oil, or castile, soap is another mild, vegetarian soap.  Wheat or soy protein is a natural ingredient that helps build lather and condition hair. 

Preservatives:
In 1973, Dr. Jakob Harich developed a preservative using grapefruit seed extract.  He suggested I include it as an ingredient in my own preservatives formula, which consisted of the antioxidant vitamins A, C & E.
This new natural preservative has proven to be both safe and effective, allowing products to be protected for a year or more.  In fact, Dr. Harich’s preservative can replace antibiotics that are widely used to feed farm animals.
Many essential oils, and other herbal extracts like benzoin gum, can protect products from spoiling.  Look for these natural preservatives cosmetic labels.


Ingredients Synthetic Manufacturers Use:

Colors:
Some cosmetic manufacturers who sell in health food stores no longer use synthetic colors, but the vast majority still do.  Watch out for D&C and FD&C colors; they’re often carcinogenic and always unnecessary.

Disinfectants:
Because synthetic products don’t contain essential oils, they’re far more vulnerable to microbial, bacterial, and fungal attack, and their manufacturers must use strong disinfectants like hydroquinoline bromide to protect them.  (Sometimes these disinfectants kill more than microbes.  Hexachlorophene, for example, killed and brain-damaged babies, until it was discontinued.

Emollients:
Mineral oil and its derivatives are the substances most commonly used by synthetic manufacturers emollients.  They’re photosensitizing, are absorbed poorly into the skin and, by interfering with the skin’s natural moisturizing factor, actually produce dry skin.  Most synthetic chemists don’t see any difference between mineral oils and mineral oils.  Petrolatum and glycerol Stearate are two ingredients to avoid.

Emulsifiers:
Surfactants (also known as surface-active agents) like propylene glycerol, triethanolamine and hydroxymethyl cellulose are often used as emulsifiers by synthetic manufacturers.  These chemicals can cause chemical reactions.

Fragrances:
Because they were specifically exempted from the Label Reading Act of 1977, specific fragrances don’t have to be listed as ingredients on body care products.  Chances are if you see fragrance on a label, it’s a synthetic chemical and not an essential oil.

Gums and PVP/VA Copolymers:
These chemicals are what most cosmetic manufacturers use in their hair-styling products.  Typically combined with alcohol, synthetic emollients and synthetic preservatives, they’re plastic films that coat your hair.

Humectants:
The most commonly used synthetic humectant is propylene glycol, a mineral oil derivative.  It’s often combined with fatty acids, which may be either natural or synthetic, but in either case, the resulting compound can be considered natural.

Hair Conditioners:
Quaternary ammonium compounds, chemicals originally developed as fabric softeners, are most commonly used as synthetic hair conditioners.  They’re quite toxic, and do nothing for the long-term health of your hair.

Soaps and Detergents:
Synthetic manufacturers of cosmetics make their shampoos, facial cleansers, and soap cakes with synthetic detergents (syndets).  Syndets are similar to soap in that they can both dissolve in oil and water, but they aren’t natural, and do the same kind of harm to our environment that laundry and household detergents do.  (Though we don’t usually think of shampoo poisoning our water the way household cleansers do, it does.)
Syndets are made from a variety of petrochemicals that are far less biodegradable than soap and far less gentle on the skin.  Many cosmetic manufacturers claim that sodium lauryl sulfate, and other syndets, come from coconuts.  They do not – the Zeigler process with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfuric acid makes them.
Syndets are often combined with diethanolamine (DEA) or triethanolamine (TEA), either of which can form carcinogenic nitrosamines in hair care and skin care products.  Here are some synthetic ingredients you should avoid in any cosmetics you buy:

§ Cocamide DEA
§ Cocamidopropyl betaine
§ Sodium laureth sulfate
§ Sodium lauryl sulfate
§ TEA-lauryl sulfate

Preservatives:
Most cosmetics are made in large batches and are mass distributed; many are even shipped overseas.  Because their synthetic chemical mix is vulnerable to microbial, bacterial and fungal contamination, these products need strong preservatives, and sometimes you’ll see as many as five of them on a single label.  Remember that they’re put in to protect the manufacturers and their making products – not to protect you.
The most commonly used synthetic cosmetic preservatives are methyl and propyl paraben, which are strong sensitizes and can cause contact dermatitis.  Formaldehyde is sometimes also used, in the form of DMDM Hydantoin.  Other preservatives to avoid are imidazolidinyl urea, also sold under the trade name of Germall, phenoxyethanol (a phenolic compound).

pH Balanced:

On cosmetic labels, “pH-balanced” is another way to keep the attention of the consumer away from “the juice in the bottle.”  The pH of water is 7.0 – perfectly neutral. The pH of the skin ranges from 4.0 to 6.75.  The pH of body care products should be from 4.5 to 8, but why manipulate it with chemicals?  After all, the pH of lemon juice and muriatic acid is both 2, but which would you rather put on your skin or hair?

Infinite Health Resources offers the finest personal care products.  The Kosmea personal care life of shampoos and body creams are all chemical free.  The Kosmea hair and body care line employ many natural and organic ingredients.  Our Avalon Organics personal care of products offer a wonderful line of personal care for all ages.  Burt’s Bees natural and organic products are great for every one of all ages.  All these personal care products use ingredients such as evening primrose oil, rosehip oil, and rose masqueto and contain no artificial colors or fragrances.

Food For Beauty

Clearly, what you eat has a direct impact on how you feel and look.
Dull dry skin and hair can have lot do with the synthetic chemicals in your food and cosmetics.
The body secretes salt through the skin’s pores; too much salt in your diet causes dry and wrinkly skin.  A diet heavy in sugar and starch, empty carbohydrates, contributes to premature aging of the skin.
Drink plenty of water.  Hydration is important for skin cells as well as overall health.  Hydration keeps the cells elastic. 
Essential Fatty Acids, (EFA’s), found in sardines, salmon, almonds, and walnuts are loaded with EFA’s as well as calcium. 
Fresh vegetables and fruits, whole grains, beans and herbal teas are the best source of vitamins and minerals.  A lack of vitamins A and C, the B vitamin riboflavin and trace minerals leads to rough, scaly, wrinkled skin and a muddy, pasty complexion.
Vitamin A keeps hair and skin soft and supple, and the nails strong.  Spinach and carrots are rich in it.
Vitamin C is needed to help the blood carry oxygen to the skin cells, and aids in the formation of collagen.
A deficiency of it leads to an older appearance.  Take at least one gram (1,000 mg) a day.
Riboflavin helps prevent large pores.  When it’s insufficient, young people are susceptible to blackheads and older people to wrinkles around the mouth. 
The sulfur-containing amino acids are important to hair and skin.  You can get them from protein-rich foods, and from Brussels sprouts, lentils, and onions.
I believe every cosmetic should contain some amount of vitamins A, C, and E.  Even if only a small amount is absorbed into the skin and utilized by the skin cells and the blood, continual use will improve the skin and hair from the inside out, as well as from the outside.

Please remember, it is never to late to change a bad habit, known or unknown.  It is up to each of us.  I hope this article gives you the power to do so.  Stay beautiful and healthy for as long as God allows.

Source: Food and Drug Administration
              Centers for Disease Control
              Aubrey Organics
              American Cancer Society


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Organic Consumers Association
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